En route from Penrith to Carlisle we were overhauled by Steve Norman. He is the first End to Ender that we have met, and he completely wiped the self-satisfied post Shap smiles off our faces by telling us that he was raising money for Motor Neurone Disease, and that he started from Land's End last Saturday and expected to finish this weekend. To add insult to injury, he is carrying all his own kit - as can be seen - making his bike so heavy that Peter and I could barely lift it off the ground. O tempora O mores.